Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

On the home page, go to "Create New Game". Enter a game name, choose the number of rounds (1-20), and enter at least 4 player names. Then click "Create and Go to Game".

After creating a game, you'll receive a unique 6-character PIN (e.g., AB12CD). Share this PIN with other players. They can enter it on the home page in the "Join a Game" section, or join directly via the game URL.

The game PIN is displayed on the game page at the top, below the game name. Click on the PIN to copy it to your clipboard for easy sharing.

On the game page, scroll down to the "Add New Round" section. Enter scores for each player. Use "Win [-101]" for the winner or "Penalty [+101]" for penalties. Then click "Add Round".

Yes! Use the "Remove Last Round" button right above the score table to remove the most recently added round.

The Win Probabilities show each player's chances of winning the game based on current scores, remaining rounds, and AI predictions. Click "Show Win Probabilities" to see detailed analysis and insights.

Yes! 101 Okey Scoreboard is fully responsive and works on all devices - smartphones, tablets, and desktop computers. Just use your web browser.

Games are stored for 10 days after creation. The expiration date is shown on the game page below the PIN. After expiration, game data is automatically deleted.

Don't worry! Your game data is saved on the server. Simply return using the same PIN or URL, and all scores will still be there. All players with the same PIN will see updates in real-time.

101 Okey is played by exactly four players seated around a table, with turns moving counter-clockwise. There's no official two-player or six-player variant — the dealing, draw mechanics, and pair-counting all assume four hands. If you've seen it played with three or six, those are house rules and the scoring usually has to be adjusted. Our scoreboard locks player count to four for the same reason.

They share the same 106-tile set and the same idea of forming runs and sets, but the rules diverge. Plain Okey ends as soon as someone completes their hand and the winner takes a flat bonus. 101 Okey adds a critical opening rule: you can't lay tiles on the table until your formations sum to at least 101 points. That single rule makes 101 Okey slower, more strategic, and far more punishing for late openers. See our deep-dive on Okey vs 101 Okey.

At the start of every round, one tile is flipped face-up from the draw pile. That tile is the indicator (gösterge). The actual joker for the round is the tile of the same colour with a number one higher — for example, if the indicator is Blue 10, both Blue 11s become the joker. The indicator never moves and never gets played; it just declares which tile is wild for the rest of the round.

To open means to lay your formations face-up on the table for the first time. You're only allowed to open when their total value is at least 101 points. Tile values equal their printed numbers (a 7 is worth 7; the joker takes the value of whatever tile it stands in for). A typical opening is two runs plus one set. You must lay all the formations that make up your 101 in a single turn — you can't open piecemeal across multiple turns.

A double okey is a special finish where you discard the joker as your last tile to end the round. Because the joker is the most valuable tile on the table, throwing it as your closing move doubles all penalty points for the round — the winner scores −202 instead of −101, and every losing player's penalty is doubled too. It's risky (you could have used the joker to complete a meld instead) but enormously profitable when it works.

At the end of a round, three things happen. The winner gets −101 points (negative is good — lowest total wins). Players who opened their hand get the sum of the numbers on their unfinished tiles as penalty (e.g. 5 + 8 + 11 = +24). Players who never opened receive a flat +202 — the steepest round-end penalty in the game. If the round was a joker finish, a pair finish, or a risk round, every one of those numbers is then multiplied by 2. Separately, +101 punitive penalties exist for two specific misplays: giving the discard that another player opens with, and throwing the joker when you weren't deliberately closing on it.

There are two false jokers in the set, marked with a smiley face. They're identical and can substitute for the okey in any formation. The catch is they only carry the okey's value, not its identity. If the indicator is Blue 10 (so the okey is Blue 11), each smiley acts as a Blue 11 inside any meld. Two smileys can sit in different formations within the same hand. They don't count as the okey for the doubling rule when discarded last.

Yes — and it's the most rewarding finish in the game. Discarding the joker as your last tile is called jokerle bitme and doubles all the round's scores: the winner takes −202, openers' penalties double, and non-openers go from +202 to +404. The trade-off is real: holding the joker until your last move means committing to a hand shape early and giving up the joker's flexibility for completing other melds.

A risk round happens when the indicator turned over at the start of the round is a smiley tile (one of the two false jokers). Because no real okey can be derived from a smiley, the round becomes high-stakes: every score at the end is multiplied by 2 on top of any other doubling. A pair-finish in a risk round can therefore swing −404 points to the winner. Some house rules skip risk rounds entirely; if you play them, agree on the multiplier upfront.

A pair finish (10 çift) is the only legal way to win without ever reaching 101 points. Instead of runs and sets, you collect ten distinct pairs in your hand — two of any tile you like, regardless of colour or number, ten times over. The moment your hand consists of exactly 10 pairs on your turn, you announce it and win. Like a joker finish, a pair finish doubles all scores for the round. It's rare but devastating.

Open as soon as you legitimately can — the longer you sit on a hand without opening, the more likely you are to eat the +202 flat penalty if someone else closes out the round. The exception is when your remaining tiles aren't easily addable: if opening leaves you with awkward singletons that can't be melded onto anyone's existing sets, your post-opening penalty could still be smaller than the +202. Rough math: if your "stuck" tiles sum to more than 130–140, holding is sometimes the right call — otherwise open.

It depends on whether you're chasing a normal finish or a joker finish. The joker is worth ~10–13 flexible points inside any meld; if you slot it early, you'll close more reliably. Holding it for a joker finish requires that your other 13 tiles are already nearly complete — otherwise you'll sit on a useless wild and lose the round. Rule of thumb: hold the joker only if you're within one or two tiles of finishing without it. Otherwise, deploy it as soon as it completes a meld.

Every discard tells you which tiles a player has decided not to need. If they throw the Red 7 early, their red runs (if any) probably live in the 1–6 or 8–13 range. Two consecutive low discards in the same colour usually mean their run sits high; two highs mean it sits low. Track the indicator and joker too — if no one has discarded the joker by mid-round, somebody is sitting on it. Over time you build a mental map of where the live tiles are.

Taking the previous player's discard is never free — you must immediately use the taken tile to open your hand in the same turn. So take only when (a) the tile pushes you over 101 with formations you already had nearly complete, and (b) you can lay everything down right then. Otherwise, draw from the pile. As a side benefit, taking the predecessor's discard signals weakness in their direction and (under common house rules) earns the giver a small penalty.

Switch your priority from building to starving. Discard tiles your opponent can't slot into their melded formations on the table — typically off-suit numbers, or numbers that would extend a run you've watched them avoid. Don't discard the joker, never discard tiles a melded run is clearly waiting on, and prefer holding your own high-value tiles over discarding them (because if the round ends with you not opened, those high tiles join your penalty count). Our strategy guide goes deeper.

There are three solid archetypes: (1) two runs and one set in three different colours — the textbook opener. (2) A four-tile run plus a four-tile set — fewer tiles, higher density, but harder to complete. (3) Three loose sets where you have one tile of each missing — joker-friendly because the okey can finish any of them. The strongest is whichever archetype matches the tiles you actually drew; trying to force one is how you spend three rounds eating the +202 flat penalty. Our starting hands article walks through each.

Take 30 seconds before the first round to agree on three things: (1) Whether the discard-penalty rule is active (giver pays when the receiver opens with their tile), (2) Whether risk rounds are played, and (3) How long the match lasts (10 or 11 games is standard for an evening). Disagreements mid-match almost always trace back to these three; settle them first and the rest of the rules are universal enough that no one fights.

No fully unified ruleset exists; tournament organisers in Turkey, Germany, and Cyprus all run slightly different variants. The most common tournament conventions are: discard-penalty rule on, risk rounds on, no early concession, exactly 11 rounds per match, and joker placement openly visible to all players. If you're playing for stakes — even small ones — write the agreed ruleset down before the first deal.

Yes — there are several mobile apps that let you play hand-to-hand against bots or remote opponents. Our app doesn't simulate the gameplay itself (you still need real tiles or another app for that) — instead, it handles the scoring for you: enter results round by round, share a PIN with the other players' devices, and the scoreboard stays in sync without any paper. It pairs nicely with a physical game on the table.